Basics of French Bulldog Puppy Care
Caring for newborn puppies is challenging, but can also be extremely rewarding. I fell in love with the process with my very first litter. It’s definitely not for the faint of heart. I’ve learned this the hard way on a few occasions. Breeding can be dangerous and heartbreaking. It doesn’t always go as planned. Even with a healthy litter, you might have that one pup that doesn’t thrive. However, when things go well, the end result is amazing! It's my absolute favorite to match puppies with new families that are going to love them as much as I already do. When I get pupdates or see my own dogs, it reminds me why I breed. I'm filled with the rewards of all the hard work. The following is a very brief overview of the 8 weeks process from birth to homes. If you are interested in breeding I highly recommend doing lots and lots and lots of research, weigh the pros and cons, make sure you have the time (someone will have to be home with the puppies for the first 3 weeks, at all times! Your home most of the time until they go to new homes), make sure you have a plan for placing puppies (a wait list is ideal), make sure you have space inside your home for all the equipment and puppies, find a mentor (maybe even help whelp one of their litters), health test your parents, do research on genetics, save money and then save extra money for the unexpected and get switched to a reproductive vet. French Bulldogs in particular are one of the hardest dogs to breed through all steps of the process, from getting pregnant to delivery to the raising of puppies. The following information is based on French Bulldog care and care after a c-section.
- Immediate After Birth Care/Set-up
- Hospital: The majority of French Bulldog deliveries are planned c-sections due to the recommendation of veterinarians for safety. French Bulldogs have a small pelvis and the babies have big heads. It doesn’t mean they can’t have a natural delivery, but it’s a bit riskier than other breeds. In the excitement and anticipation of puppies, it’s easy to forget to pack for after delivery and bringing puppies and mom home. (You would be surprised at how many people forget this part).
- For puppies: I like to bring a clear tote with lid and a perfectly fitting bed. An electric heat pad goes under the bed and a smaller microwave heat pad wrapped in a towel on top. Make sure you monitor the temperature closely, especially if you have a distance to travel.
- For mom: Lots of towels/blankets, microwave heat pad to help maintain temp after surgery, wet wipes, paper towels and trash bag. Mom will still be groggy so its best to keep separate from puppies.
- Whelping Area: This should be prepared a couple of weeks prior to delivery for mom to get comfortable with the space. It’s a clean, comfortable, and safe space for the puppies and mom. Use a whelping box or a similar container with lots of bedding. Tuck bedding under the edges so puppies don’t crawl between layers and get trapped. Add a “pig rail” for the first couple of weeks to protect babies so they don’t get smooshed in a corner. Ensure the area is draft-free and quiet.
- Warmth: Newborn puppies are unable to regulate their body temperature. Keep them warm with a safe secure heat lamp or a heating pad set on low. A temperature of around 85-90°F (29-32°C) is ideal for the first few days. Make sure to provide a warm and cool side of the whelping box. Gradually reduce the temperature as they grow. You’ll know if they need more or less warmth from where they lay and if they seem content.
- Cleanliness: Ensure the whelping area is clean and dry at all times. Keep the bedding fresh and free from soiling. Keeping things clean will prevent disease! This means washing hands before handling, no shoes that can track in contamination, no visiting pets and no visitors other than the necessary people.
- Mom: Right after delivery will be a stressful time for mom. She might be groggy from the anesthesia for a while. For a first-time mom she's trying to figure out what these tiny things are, nursing and what she is supposed to do. She will need 24-hour help caring for her puppies for the first couple of weeks. This means day and night! Some people like to raise their puppies in an incubator and give mom puppies when it's time to feed. I’ve never done this as I find it extremely stressful for mom to have her babies taken away. I think they need to bond from the get-go. This also means extra work and sleepless nights for the breeder. Make sure she is comfortable in her whelping pen, but can also get out and away from babies if needed. Follow veterinary aftercare instructions. Make sure she drinks and eats small amounts before giving full meal after delivery. Anesthesia can make them nauseous. Monitor her urination, BMs, incision, temperature and nipples. Report any unusual behavior such as vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, aggression or panicking to your vet ASAP. Panting, especially at night, for the first couple days is not uncommon. However, if it seems excessive or she has trouble catching her breath contact your vet. Check her temperature daily and report any temp. above 103°F.
- Feeding
- Mother’s Milk: Ideally, newborn puppies should nurse from their mother. Ensure she has a nutritious diet and plenty of fresh water. Monitor the puppies to ensure they are nursing regularly. You may need to help them latch in the beginning. If you have a large litter you may need to rotate puppies with a formula supplement.
- Bottle Feeding: If the mother is unavailable or unable to nurse, use a high-quality puppy milk replacer. Follow the instructions on the package for mixing and feeding. Puppies need to be fed every 2-3 hours for the first few weeks.
- Feeding Schedule: Newborn puppies need frequent feedings. As a general guideline:
- 0-1 week: Every 2-3 hours, even through the night
- 1-2 weeks: Every 3-4 hours
- 2-4 weeks: Every 4-6 hours
- Feeding Schedule: Newborn puppies need frequent feedings. As a general guideline:
- Feeding Technique: Use a puppy nursing bottle or a syringe with a nipple. Hold the puppy in a natural, belly-down position to prevent aspiration. Ensure the milk is at body temperature (about 100°F).
- Weigh puppies daily in ounces to make sure they're gaining weight. Keep a weight log.
- Elimination
- Stimulation: Newborn puppies cannot urinate or defecate on their own. After each feeding, gently stimulate the puppy’s genital area with a warm, damp cloth or cotton ball to encourage elimination. The mother usually does this, but if she’s not present, you need to take over. Even when mom is doing a good job, I always double-check. Puppies can get what I call “sticky butt” the first week. Their poo can dry right under the tail almost like it's been glued. If this happens very gently massage the area with a damp soft cloth and eventually it will start coming off. I use baby wet whips.
- Health Monitoring
- Weight: Weigh the puppies daily to ensure they are gaining weight steadily. A healthy puppy should gain about 5-10% of its body weight daily. On the first day, they might lose a very little amount of weight just like a human newborn. After that, they should gain. If one loses weight start trying to figure out why right away. Puppies go downhill very quickly and weight loss will be your first indication.
- Check for Issues: Monitor for any signs of illness, such as a lack of appetite, diarrhea, or lethargy. Concerns can also arise as they grow. You may not notice an issue when they're very small such as a hernia, ocular dermoid, or swimmer puppy syndrome. If any concerns arise, consult a veterinarian ASAP.
- Don’t forget about mom: Make sure she’s maintaining or gaining weight as needed. Continue feeding her a quality puppy food for extra calories. You can use satin balls to help with weight gain or there is also a prescription veterinary diet to help if needed. Mom will also continue to expel discharge over the next couple weeks. It should become less over time and should be darker in color, no odor. Contact your vet if you're seeing large amounts or bright red blood past the first day. Check her temperature daily. Anything over 103°F contact your vet ASAP or an emergency vet. Maintain cleanliness of incision and nipples. Monitor nipples for redness or heat over what’s normal. I like to start giving mom Breeder’s Edge Oral Cal Plus and OxyMomma postnatal supplements once mom is eating normally again.
- Socialization and Handling
- Handling: Gently handle the puppies to get them accustomed to human contact. This helps with their socialization and ensures they are comfortable with handling as they grow. Just keep in mind good hygiene practices to prevent disease.
- Toe Nail Trimming: I like to start trimming just the very tips of the nail as soon as I feel comfortable with their size. This gets them used to handling their feet and will hopefully make it easier later in life for their new family.
- Environmental Stimulus: Their whelping pen should be in a very low-traffic, quiet space for the first month after birth. From 5 weeks on, I like to move the puppies into a larger pen in a more trafficked area. You don’t want to overstimulate your puppies as they still need their quiet and sleep time, however, they should see and hear the activities of the family. We like to introduce them to everything from the TV and vacuum sounds to going outside in the grass. A breeder's job is to get a puppy ready for a new family and stimulation training helps reduce fear during the transition into a new home.
- Social Interaction: Allow them to interact with their siblings and mother, as this helps with their social development. This is huge for the proper development of a puppy. They learn so much in the first 8 weeks of life regarding how to behave as a proper dog. This is why they should not leave for new homes until at least 8 weeks of age. This is critical!
- Potty Training
- Litter Training: Start litter training as soon as the puppies start walking around. This is roughly 3 ½ weeks old. I start with a mat until they’re big enough to get into a litter box easily. If you are consistent in placing them on the mat for a day or two, they catch on very quickly.
- Outside Training: This will vary quite a bit by time of year. The sooner you can start this skill the better, however, you also don’t want to subject a small puppy to very cold weather. I live in Michigan, so this becomes a little tricky in winter. Winter puppies are usually a little older when we start potty training outside. I like to bell train and we usually start about 7-8 weeks old.
- Veterinary Care
- Check-Up: Schedule a veterinary check-up for the puppies to ensure they are healthy around 6 weeks old. Don’t let the puppies walk on the vet floor. Carry, use a foldable wagon or stroller to move the pups through the office. This will help with disease prevention. You can start their first vaccination at 6 weeks of age. The first vaccine is the distemper/parvo and is critical in protecting the health of your puppies. Parvo is highly contagious and can spread easily on hands, clothes and shoes. With new people coming to your home to see the puppies it is incredibly important to have the vaccine done at least a week in advance to ensure protection. The vaccine also protects the puppies as they leave your home, but let the new owners know they will need to continue puppy vaccines with their vet to be completely vaccinated and protected. I put a health check clause in my puppy contract to make sure the new owner's vet feels the puppy is healthy when it leaves my home and to make sure the new owner is set up with a vet and will continue to vaccinate.
- Gradual Weaning
- Introducing Solid Food: Around 3-4 weeks of age, start introducing solid food. Begin with a high-quality puppy food mixed with puppy milk replacer to make it easier for them to transition. Gradually increase the solid food portion as they grow. It’s a messing process in the beginning, but they will quickly get the hang of it.
Caring for newborn puppies is a rewarding but demanding task. Providing them with the right care and attention in these early weeks sets the foundation for their health and development. I can’t stress enough, before you start your breeding journey, do some soul-searching to make sure this is the right step for you, your significant other, your kids and your family as a whole. You're going to miss life events, holidays, vacation plans change or you don’t vacation at all, as well as rearranging your home to accommodate dogs, puppies and all the “stuff”. You always think with all decisions, “How will this affect the dogs”. It's not just a fun thing to do, a hobby or a light-hearted experience, breeding is 100% a lifestyle! There's a lot more that goes into breeding than what I’ve just listed, however, these are some of the basics to plan for and take into consideration.
If you decide to take the leap, I wish you good luck and good health!
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